November 2013 archive

Make up Snobbery – it has no place in makeovers, or anywhere else!

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Time and time again I hear – I don’t use cheap make up – it has to be MAC or Urban Decay or some other such brand of the moment. Wake up people – it’s marketing. Yes premium brand cosmetics may be very good quality, but a huge chunk of what you are paying for is the branding, the advertising and PR.

There are brands out there that don’t get the same exposure, PR or branding, but that does not mean to say that you compromise on quality by investing some of your money in a cheaper brand.

I have various brands in my make- up box. Taking a look I see:

Lancome

Clinic

Laura Geller

YBF

Natural Collection

Collection 2000

Max Factor

No 7

Body Shop

Revlon

Bare Minerals

Lord and Berry

Shu Uemura

Fran Wison

I can assure you there are more, but I am going to stop the list there. Some of the cosmetic brands you may recognise, some you may not as I am a big fan of QVC (and their return policy with make- up) and they often bring over American brands of make- up that cannot be found elsewhere in the UK.

Having said not to be a snob about make-up brands, I will also add a caveat. Be careful about some lesser known make up brands.

We should all be careful about unbranded or unrecognisable brands from China and the Far East. A lot of make products are made in China under license by EU and American companies. The USA and the EU have strict guidance about what ingredients can and cannot appear in make- up, and as long as the the companies making their products in China have very strict quality control policies, all should be fine.

However, it is very easy to obtain cosmetics which may not meet EU standards on sites like Global Sources. Here you can buy pallets full of cosmetics, and unless you have a chemist test the formulation, it is impossible to know what the cosmetic ingredients may contain. So beware about buying makeup on sites like ebay or on market stalls. If big companies like Fisher Price, (who had problems with lead paint in children’s toys a few years back) have quality control issues, then how on earth are we supposed to know what is in that highly pigmented make up, bought from a market stall.

So the message is beware, but don’t be a makeup snob. (Although, I was very guilty of it myself in my twenties. Nothing but Estee Launder!) But do try out other lesser known brands. You never know, they might just surprise you, and you will save yourself some money.

PS. If some well known make-up artist has produced a video demo using lots of expensive brands, remember that PR companies send out cosmetics FREE for them to use.

What is a Make-up Artist?

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I found myself asking this question as I am preparing for a shoot with three girls in one day. I would prefer to do one at a time and then watch the shoot, and then adjust the client as a stylist. But on this occasion it’s not possible.

I have been watching some Lisa Eldridge’s  Videos and asked myself the same question. In some ways our beginnings are very similar. We are of a similar age ( but she looks much younger than her years) and became fascinated with art and make-up in very much the same way. She says in an interview that she became intrigued with make-up by looking through her mother’s make up bag, and later stated that she wanted to become a make-up artist, but said nobody knew what one was at that time.

I also remember stealing, or rather permanently borrowing, a Mary Quant olive green cream stick eyeshadow from my mother’s make-up collection. And when it finished, ( this was somtime in the 1970’s, I was heartbroken, as it brought out the colour in my blue eyes. It just made them pop. ( I have been looking for the perfect green for my eyes ever since.)

Lisa said she wanted to be a makeup artist. I wanted to be a window dress designer. I would have loved to be a makeup artist, but my skin then was not great, and I just could not see that career working out. In the late 70’s early 80’s I met a lovely lady who was a BBC make- up artist. She showed me all the different looks that could be achieved by highlighting and shading. It was a new world. I am not sure there were any official qualifications for make- up artistry in those days. You learnt at an academy or as an apprentice. There were no NVQs.

I learnt all I could from books over the years. I even have a very rare book in my possession. It is dated now, but fun to look at none the less. I didn’t officially qualify, if that really means anything, until 2012. The most important part of that course to me was about hygiene, which I take very seriously.

So I ask again what is a make- up artist?  Well I think it is someone who can make you look good or your worst or best day, someone who can make the most of your best assets; someone who can find the right colour to enhance your eyes.  Would I have liked to have flown all over the world as a make-up artist to the stars? The answer is no, because my career in media did that anyway. And working on magazines in advertising as I did, meant not dealing with temperamental models.

I promise you, if we are to ever meet in a professional setting, whether than be at pre wedding shoot or a portraiture shoot, then I will do my very best to make you look stunning; because seeing a client glowing, is what gives me pleasure.

Lip Pencil Essentials

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It is almost impossible to find lip pencils that will provide a universal finish. Either you end up with a range of pencils in various colours that almost inevitably end up at the bottom of your make up bag or you meticulously arrange various lip pencils so that they can be teamed up with every lip shade you have ever bought. This is unlikely, as next to foundation, lip colours are the hardest thing to get right. You not only have to take into account your own colouring, but you also have to team lipsticks with your clothing.

There is no doubt that using a lip liner helps to define lips. This becomes more important the older we get. But for one lip liner to match every shade of lipstick ever bought – well that is just unrealistic. The answer then is to have a shade or two that will universally blend with most of the colours you wear in your lip pallet. By that I mean, most of the colours you wear every day.

Most of us will fall into fair, medium or dark colouring and our lip colour choices are likely to reflect that. Our skin tone and hair colouring is likely to be the dominant factor in our lipstick choices. The exception to this is when we buy our lip colour to match a particular outfit, for example a special dress for a wedding. But if we stay with the concept that mostly our lipsticks fall into one or two colour pallets then the answer is to find the perfect lip pencils that will blend with most of the colours regularly worn.

Autograph by Marks and Spencer, have two such lip pencils that fit the bill. Last week I purchased two shades that will match most lips colours that I will be using on the majority of the make overs I do. The colour choices were Rosewood and Nude Pink.

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Rosewood is the deeper tone. It will blend with peachy and russets tones and well as going with dark reds and very deep pinks with blue undertones. The nude is a fab standby colour that you can use with most lighters shades. From pale pinks, to fair peaches. These two lip pencils are a great asset to your make up bag. If you cannot get this particular brand, then do try to find similar colours in other ranges. They are available. But do watch out! Whilst on the hunt for the perfect lip pencil shade, I saw one or two shady creatures myself. These are young girls who hang around the make- up counters and try lip gloss and pencils on their own lips instead of the backs of their hands. I then saw them put back the products they used for others to buy. These were not testers!

The lips pencils I bought were fully sealed and so I could be certain no one had tried them on. Hygiene in makeovers and in make up in general, should be a top priority. So do try and make sure the products you buy are not tampered with.

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